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ULTAR SAR PEAK (7388M)
Name of Peak Ultar Sar Peak (7388-M) Location Karakoram Hunza
Best Period June-September Elevation 7388-M
First Ascent 1996 Base camp Height 4300-M
Ultar SAR (also Ultar, Ultar II, Bojohagur Duanasir II) is the southeastern most major peak of the Batura Muztagh, a subrange of the Karakorum Range. It lies about 10 km (6 miles) northeast of the Karimabad, a town on the Karakorum Highway in the Hunza Valley, part of the Gilgit District of the Northern Areas of Pakistan.
Features and Climbing History
While not one of the highest peaks of the Karakorum, Ultar SAR is notable for its dramatic rise above local terrain. Its south flank rises over 5,300 meters (17,388 feet) above the Hunza River near Karimabad, in only about 10 km (6 miles) of horizontal distance. Combined with its strategic position at the end of the Batura Muztagh, with the Hunza River bending around it, this makes Ultar a visually striking peak.
Ultar SAR also gained fame in the 1990s as supposedly the world’s highest unclimbed independent peak. This was incorrect, as Gangkhar Puensum in Bhutan is higher, and remains unclimbed (and off-limits) in 2007. (Two other higher peaks are also reputedly unclimbed and of independent stature.) However that perception did add to the appeal of the peak, and a number of expeditions attempted to climb it. During the 1980s and 1990s over 15 expeditions made attempts, resulting in no success, but in a number of fatalities; the peak proved to be quite difficult.The first two ascents were made in July 1996 by two separate Japanese expeditions, the first (from the Tokai section of the Japanese Alpine Club) led by Akito Yamazaki (who summitted, but died on the descent) and the second led by Ken Takahashi. The first summit team comprised Yamazaki and Kiyoshi Matsuoka (who died one year later on the nearby peak Bublimotin). They climbed the peak from the southwest in alpine style, doing much of the climbing at night to avoid danger from falling rock and ice. After their successful summit, they faced strong storms and bivouaced several days without food before returning to base camp. However, Akihito Yamazaki died at the base camp of an internal disease due to the severe stress of climbing.The second summit team comprised Takahashi and four others: Masayuki Ando, Ryushi Hoshino, Wataru Saito, and Nobuo Tsutsumi. They climbed the south ridge. Since 1996, there have been no recorded ascents of the peak.
Karakorum Guides Treks & Tours is all set to make your expedition to Ultar Sar Peak as seamless as possible. We have 40 days itinerary for Ultar Sar Peak that starts with your arrival in Islamabad. We will take care of your comfort and safety throughout your time with us. The ideal climbing season for this starts in June and ends in September.
Arrive Islamabad International Airport And Transfer To Hotel
Drive to Chilas via Babusar Pass 4137m 12-14hrs
Drive to Karimabad 6-7hrs. 220 km
: Drive to Shahabad and trek to Sahmir Harai
Trek to Bath Bakor
Trek to Ultar Sar base camp
(28 days in Ultar Sar base camp for climbing)
Trek down to Bath Bakor
Trek down to Shahabad and drive to Karimabad
Free day in Hunza, local visits
Drive to Naran via Babusar Pass 4173m.
Drive to Islamabad 6-7hrs
Transfer to Islamabad airport for return flight